General watches and operation

1. How to recognize an authentic luxury watch?

An authentic watch is distinguished by the impeccable quality of its finishes: precise indexes, clear typography, balanced weight. Check that the serial numbers match the papers and that the movement is smooth. Modern counterfeits sometimes imitate the exterior very well: only a movement inspection by a watchmaker can remove any doubt. You can contact us directly for any questions.

2. What is the difference between an automatic, manual and quartz watch?

Quartz watches operate using a battery and a vibrating crystal (quartz), giving them near-perfect precision. Manual mechanical watches must be wound regularly using the crown. Automatic watches recharge themselves through wrist movements, thanks to a built-in rotor. Quartz watches focus on practicality, while mechanical watches focus on tradition and watchmaking heritage.

3. How to properly wind a mechanical watch?

Remove the watch from your wrist to avoid any stress on the stem, then gently turn the crown clockwise. Stop as soon as you feel a noticeable resistance. On a screw-down crown, remember to screw it back in after reassembly to maintain water resistance.

4. How often should a mechanical watch be serviced?

Most watchmakers recommend servicing every 3 to 10 years, with the average being about 6 years. This allows for cleaning the movement, replacing the oils, and checking for water resistance. If your watch suddenly runs slow, stops, or has condensation under the crystal, it should be serviced early. Waiting too long can cause wear and tear that is costly to repair.

5. What do the waterproof ratings (30 m, 50 m, 100 m) mean?

These figures correspond to laboratory test pressure, not actual depth.

• 30m: Splashproof, not swimproof.
• 50 m: suitable for showering or light swimming.
• 100 m and more: swimming, snorkeling, or even diving if the watch is ISO 6425 certified.

Remember to replace the gaskets regularly and test the water resistance after each opening of the watch.

6. What is the difference between a chronograph and a stopwatch?

A chronograph is a timekeeping function with independent hands that measure a time interval. A chronometer is a certification of accuracy issued by an official body (for example, the COSC in Switzerland). A watch can be a chronograph, a stopwatch, both... or neither. The former designates a complication, the latter a guarantee of performance.

7. What is a whirlwind?

The tourbillon is a complication that rotates the escapement on itself, in order to reduce the effect of gravity on regularity. Today, it is above all a symbol of excellence and mechanical virtuosity. The gain in precision in everyday use remains marginal, but the aesthetics and complexity of the tourbillon make it one of the most prestigious complications.

8. How to choose the right watch size for your wrist?

The choice depends on the case diameter, thickness, and lug length. A watch should not extend beyond the wrist when viewed from above. Thickness also influences comfort under a shirt. So-called vintage watches had balanced proportions and respected the rules of general aesthetics. For an elegant watch, we can go from 28 mm to 38 mm excluding the crown; for a technical watch, it is possible to go higher depending on the size of the wrist.

9. How to adjust or change a watch strap?

For a steel bracelet, links are removed or added by driving out the pins using specific tools, then the adjustment is refined via the micro-extension of the clasp. For a leather strap, the adjustment is made through the holes in the strap; if necessary, an additional hole can be drilled neatly. We recommend entrusting this operation to a watchmaker to avoid scratches and ensure water resistance.

10. Can you change the battery of a watch yourself?

Changing a battery is technically possible with the right tools, but it carries risks: scratches, improperly replaced seals, loss of water resistance, improper handling, damage to the coil, etc. It's best to leave the operation to a professional. Always remove a used battery quickly to avoid acid leaks that damage the movement.

11. How to clean and maintain a watch on a daily basis?

Regularly wipe the case and glass with a microfiber cloth. Steel bracelets can be cleaned in warm soapy water with a soft brush, then dried thoroughly. Leather bracelets should not be submerged: use a dry cloth and a specific nourishing care product instead. Avoid operating the crown or pushers in water. For a thorough cleaning, take the watch to a watchmaker.

Additional questions

1. What is the power reserve and how to choose it?

Power reserve is the time a mechanical watch continues to run after being fully wound (or worn for an automatic) without additional movement. It is determined by the capacity of the mainspring, the number of barrels, and the friction in the gear train. For everyday use, 40-50 hours is often sufficient.

2. What types of watch crystals (glasses) are there, and what are their advantages/disadvantages?

• Synthetic sapphire: very scratch resistant, used in high quality watches, can break under strong impact.
• Mineral glass: harder than acrylic, cheaper than sapphire, scratches more easily.
• Acrylic (plexiglass): flexible, inexpensive, easily repaired/polished, but scratches frequently.

3. What are the most common watch complications?

A complication is any function beyond displaying hours, minutes, and seconds. The most common are:

• Date / Day-Date: Displays the day or date of the month via a window and a date jump mechanism.
• GMT / dual time: Indicates a second time zone with additional hands or indicators.
• Chronograph: Allows intervals to be measured using additional pushers and gears.
• Moon phase: Displays the lunar phases via a complex mechanism coupled with the calendar.

These complications add moving parts, meaning more maintenance, more adjustments, and more cost.

4. What is the frequency or vibration of a watch, and why does it matter?

Frequency is the number of vibrations per hour or oscillations per second of the balance wheel in a mechanical watch. It influences accuracy and regularity. Example: 28,800 v/h (4 Hz) is a good compromise between stability and acceptable wear. Higher frequencies improve stability over short intervals but increase friction and wear. In quartz, the principle is different; the electronic oscillator operates at a very high frequency.

5. Anti-magnetic watches: what does it mean, and how do you know if a watch is?

An antimagnetic watch resists magnetic fields that can disrupt the hairspring, balance wheel, or other metal components. This can be achieved through silicon components, paramagnetic alloys, or a soft metal inner cage. The manufacturer's documentation usually states the resistance in Gauss (e.g., 4,000, 15,000 Gauss) or ISO 764.

6. What is the lifespan of seals/gaskets, and when should they be replaced?

Gaskets ensure the watertightness of the case and crown. Over time, they dry out, lose their flexibility, and can crack. It is recommended to test the watertightness once a year or after each opening for maintenance. Replacement should be done by a watchmaker; this is a moderate cost but essential to protect the movement.

7. What does “in-house movement / manufacture movement” mean vs. third-party movement?

An in-house movement is designed and manufactured by the brand itself, ensuring expertise and quality control. A third-party movement is purchased from an external supplier (ETA, Sellita, Miyota), which is reliable and proven, but less exclusive. In-house movement is often a factor in prestige and influences the price.

8. How do I set the date and time without damaging the mechanism?

Never change the date between 8 p.m. and 3 a.m. (danger zone). Advance the hours to get out of this range, then adjust the date. Always follow the caliber's instructions.

9. Why are some watches very expensive while others offer similar functions?

Price depends on the movement, complications, materials, finish, brand reputation, rarity, and R&D costs. Even for simple functions, a prestige watch can justify its price through quality and watchmaking heritage.

10. What does “water resistance 200m / 20 ATM / 20 bar” mean?

Indicates that the watch is resistant to a pressure equivalent to a theoretical 200 m. This allows for recreational swimming and diving if the gaskets, crown and caseback are in good condition, and ISO 6425 compliance if indicated.

11. How does an extension bracelet or folding clasp work, and what are the advantages?

An extension strap allows the bracelet to be slightly lengthened for wearing over a wetsuit or during activities. A folding clasp ensures secure closure, comfort, and longevity of the bracelet.

Vintage & Collectible Watches

1. How do you know if an antique watch is authentic?

Check the consistency between the dial, movement, and case. Serial numbers should match those found in period catalogs. Analyze the fonts, logo, tritium/radium, and hands to detect any redials. Counterfeits are rarer on older watches than on newer ones.

2. What is a “redial” and how to detect it?

A redial is a repainted or restored dial. Signs: overly sharp markings, incorrect font, recent indexes, lack of micro-details. An original dial, even one with a patina, is always preferable.

3. What is the difference between a natural patina and deterioration?

Patina is a uniform and aesthetic aging process. Deterioration results from moisture or corrosion. A beautiful patina increases its value; deterioration reduces it.

4. How to interpret the serial numbers of a vintage watch?

Each brand has its own registers: Rolex (numbers engraved between the lugs before 2010), Omega (numbers on the movement). This allows production to be dated and the dial/hand consistency to be checked.

5. Why are vintage watches often smaller than modern ones?

Until the 1970s, the men's standard was 33-36 mm. The 1990s saw diameters of 40-44 mm. Vintage watches therefore appear smaller than current models.

6. What is a tropical dial?

Black or colored dial that has naturally turned chocolate brown or bronze over time and in the sun. Each piece is unique and highly sought after.

7. How to maintain an antique watch without losing its value?

Avoid excessive polishing, preserve the patina of the dial and hands, and have them serviced regularly.

8. Are vintage watches waterproof?

Most of them are no longer. Seals and housings are degrading. Consider them leaky unless completely restored.

9. What are the most sought-after vintage brands?

Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Heuer, Longines, Universal Genève, Zenith, Jaeger-LeCoultre. Secondary brands like Enicar, Eterna, Movado are becoming popular.

10. What is “NOS” (New Old Stock)?

Antique watch, never worn, in its original condition, sometimes with tags, box and papers. Rare and highly sought-after pieces.

11. Is it better to buy a vintage watch with or without papers?

Original papers and box add 20–30% to the value and guarantee provenance. A watch without papers remains valuable if it is authentic and consistent.